The Origins of Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons, often abbreviated as CDG, is a globally renowned Japanese fashion label founded by designer Rei Kawakubo in 1969. The name “Comme des Garçons,” which translates to “Like Boys” in French, reflects the brand’s commitment to challenging traditional gender norms in fashion. The label began as a small, experimental venture but soon evolved into a leading force in avant-garde fashion. Kawakubo, known for her anti-establishment views and innovative designs, established CDG with the idea of creating fashion that defies conventions, celebrating imperfection, asymmetry, and androgyny.
In the early years, Comme des Garçons was mostly recognized in Japan, but it quickly gained international attention, particularly after its debut in Paris in 1981. Kawakubo’s Paris debut was shocking to many, as her designs defied the glamorous and sleek silhouettes that dominated Western fashion at the time. Instead, CDG embraced dark, deconstructed, and unconventional shapes. Kawakubo’s designs were labeled as “Hiroshima chic” due to their stark, somber, and almost post-apocalyptic aesthetic. This distinct approach to fashion became a trademark of the brand and established it as a key player in avant-garde fashion.
The Philosophy Behind Comme des Garçons
The philosophy behind Comme des Garçons centers around Rei Kawakubo’s desire to break free from traditional fashion rules. Rather than focusing on beauty in the conventional sense, she aims to create clothing that challenges perceptions and evokes thought. Kawakubo once said, “For something to be beautiful, it doesn’t have to be pretty.” This sentiment underpins CDG’s radical approach to design, where imperfections and asymmetry are celebrated rather than hidden.
Comme des Garçons challenges gender norms by frequently designing androgynous pieces, blurring the lines between men’s and women’s fashion. This androgynous aesthetic, often characterized by oversized and unconventional silhouettes, is now a hallmark of the brand. The clothes are designed not to conform to the body but to allow the body to adapt to them, giving the wearer freedom and individuality. CDG’s deconstructed designs often feature exposed seams, unfinished edges, and unusual fabric combinations, reflecting Kawakubo’s belief in the beauty of imperfection.
Beyond fashion, CDG’s philosophy extends to challenging consumerism and the fashion industry’s constant demand for newness. Kawakubo’s designs often reject trends, creating timeless pieces that stand apart from fast fashion cycles. This commitment to slow, thoughtful design has earned CDG a cult following of loyal customers who appreciate the intellectual depth and artistic integrity behind each collection.
Iconic Collections and Designs
Comme des Garçons has produced numerous iconic collections that have left a lasting impact on the fashion industry. One of the most famous is the Spring/Summer 1997 collection, often referred to as the “lumps and bumps” collection. This collection featured bulbous, padded shapes that distorted the body’s silhouette, pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. Models wore garments with irregular, exaggerated shapes, creating a look that was both unsettling and visually captivating. The collection was a statement on the artificiality of beauty standards and the constraints imposed on the female body by conventional fashion.
Another iconic moment in CDG’s history is the 2017 Met Gala, which honored Rei Kawakubo with the theme “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between.” This was a rare honor, as Kawakubo became only the second living designer to be the focus of the Met’s Costume Institute exhibit, following Yves Saint Laurent in 1983. The exhibit showcased Kawakubo’s ability to create “in-between” spaces in fashion—between beauty and ugliness, male and female, construction and deconstruction.
The brand’s Play line, introduced in 2002, is another notable aspect of Comme des Garçons. Known for its minimalist designs featuring the iconic heart-with-eyes logo, designed by artist Filip Pagowski, Play has become a highly recognizable and accessible part of the CDG universe. The Play line is often considered a more casual and mainstream entry point into the avant-garde world of Comme des Garçons, appealing to a younger demographic while maintaining the brand’s distinctive aesthetic.
Collaboration and Influence
Comme des Garçons is known not only for its unique designs but also for its wide range of collaborations. Over the years, CDG has partnered with various designers, artists, and brands, from Nike and Converse to Supreme and Louis Vuitton. These collaborations blend CDG’s avant-garde sensibility with other creative forces, resulting in some of the most sought-after fashion items in recent years.
The brand’s influence extends far beyond the fashion world. Rei Kawakubo’s vision has inspired countless designers, and her impact can be seen in the work of contemporary labels such as Maison Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rick Owens. Comme des Garçons’ emphasis on deconstruction and anti-fashion has pushed the boundaries of what fashion can be, making it more than just clothing but a form of artistic expression.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons has carved out a unique space in the fashion industry, driven by Rei Kawakubo’s relentless pursuit of innovation and her desire to challenge conventional norms. From its radical runway shows to its highly sought-after collaborations, CDG continues to be a pioneering force in fashion. Kawakubo’s legacy is one of rebellion, creativity, and the celebration of imperfection—a philosophy that will undoubtedly continue to inspire future generations of designers.